Époisses
Époisses is a legendary French washed-rind cheese from Burgundy with a distinctive orange-red exterior and creamy, pungent interior. Protected by AOC designation since 1976, it is renowned for its aggressive aromatics and rich, complex flavor that demands respect in cheese courses and pairings. The cheese's notoriously strong smell has made it both celebrated and infamous, often banned from public transportation in France. Despite its assertive nature, Époisses offers surprising depth and is considered one of the world's most important artisanal cheeses.
Flavor Profile
Aggressive ammonia and sulfurous notes that announce themselves powerfully; the aroma is intentionally challenging and develops with age
Luxuriously smooth texture with rich dairy undertones and a velvety mouthfeel that contradicts the aggressive nose
Deep savory complexity with meaty, mushroom-like notes and pronounced saltiness from the brine washing
Subtle heat and peppery bite on the finish that builds with extended palate contact
Underlying notes of dried fruit and subtle florals that emerge beneath the dominant pungent characteristics
Seasonality
Year-round production with seasonal variations in intensity
Available throughout the year; best flavor from spring through autumn production cycles
Best Months
Culinary Uses
Available Forms
Key Techniques
- Direct service at room temperature
- Spreading on bread and crostini
- Pairing with fruits and nuts
- Wine tasting accompaniment
- Occasionally melting for savory applications (though this diminishes the intended experience)
Classic Dishes
Flavor Pairings
Perfect Pairings
Pinot Noir's delicate tannins don't overpower aged cheese; earthy notes harmonize with complex cheese flavors
The sweet-tart freshness of pears cleanses the palate while walnuts provide nutty, earthy notes that harmonize with the cheese's complexity
The earthy, slightly sour character of dark bread provides structural contrast and helps balance the cheese's intense funk with wholesome grain flavors
Sharp acidity and vinegar cut through richness and pungency, providing palate cleansing
Cured meats share the cheese's savory, umami-forward character while their salt and fat content create complementary flavor bridges
Good Pairings
The effervescence and acidity provide palate cleansing, though the delicate floral notes can be overpowered by Époisses' intensity
Fruit preserves offer sweet-tart contrast, though they may mute some of the cheese's more nuanced flavors
Earthy nuts echo the cheese's fermented character and provide pleasant textural contrast
Mild sweetness and crisp texture balance the cheese's intense umami without overwhelming the palate
The spirit used in washing the cheese appears as a complementary partner; sipping between bites enhances the warming spice notes
Storage & Handling
Method
Refrigerate at 50-55°F (10-13°C) in the cheese drawer or dedicated cheese compartment
Duration
7-14 days after purchase; best consumed within 1 week of purchase
Pro Tips
- Keep in original paper or specialized cheese paper to allow continued breathing
- Store away from other cheeses to prevent aroma transfer
- Allow to reach room temperature (65-70°F) for 20-30 minutes before serving for optimal flavor
- Keep tightly wrapped to contain aroma but allow minimal air circulation
- Check regularly for excessive weeping; if present, place on paper towels to absorb excess liquid
Origin & Heritage
History
Époisses originated in the small village of Époisses in the Yonne department of Burgundy during the 16th century, initially created by monks at a local monastery. The cheese became commercially significant in the 18th and 19th centuries, gaining fame for its distinctive washed-rind production method involving Marc de Bourgogne (Burgundy brandy) and brine. The tradition nearly died out in the mid-20th century before being revived by dedicated artisans, leading to AOC protection in 1976 to preserve authentic production methods.
Cultural Significance
Époisses holds an almost mythical status in French gastronomy, considered a rite of passage for serious cheese enthusiasts. Its powerful aroma has become part of French cultural identity, referenced in literature and banned from French public transportation, making it a symbol of French eccentricity and uncompromising tradition. The cheese represents the pinnacle of washed-rind tradition and is featured prominently in prestigious French cheese selections.
The Science
Understanding the key chemical compounds helps explain why époisses pairs well with certain ingredients.
Volatile compound responsible for the pronounced potato/earthy notes; develops during the washing and aging process
Sulfurous volatile compound creating the characteristic funky, barnyard-like aroma that intensifies with age
Pungent carboxylic acid contributing sweaty, vinegary notes and contributing to the aggressive nose
Short-chain fatty acid creating butter and slightly rancid notes in the flavor profile
Organic compounds developed during fermentation contributing fruity and floral undertones beneath dominant pungent notes
Quick Tips
TL;DR for Époisses
Best For
Époisses on Crusty Bread with Cornichons, Cheese Board with Burgundy Wine
Top Pairing
Red Wine Burgundy
Pro Tip
Direct service at room temperature
Storage
7-14 days after purchase; best consumed within 1 week of purchase fresh · Not applicable frozen
Nutrition
Per 100g
Health Benefits
- Rich source of calcium and phosphorus for bone health
- High-quality complete protein with all essential amino acids
- Contains probiotics from beneficial bacterial cultures that support digestive health
- Provides vitamin B12 and selenium for energy metabolism
Buying Guide
Price Range: $$$
Look For
- Vibrant orange-red rind with even color distribution and slight tackiness
- Gentle aroma that suggests age without overwhelming decay; fresh ammonia notes indicate proper curing
- Creamy interior visible at edges when tilted; should jiggle slightly when moved but not be liquid
- Minimal weeping or excessive liquid on rind; slight moisture acceptable
Avoid
- Dull or grayish rind indicating oxidation or improper storage
- Ammonia smell so intense it causes physical recoil; indicates over-ripeness or spoilage
- Liquid pooling inside box or excessive moisture suggesting delayed ripening or heat damage
- Chalky, dry interior; should have a creamy, pliable texture throughout
Where to Find
- Dedicated cheese mongers and specialty cheese shops (preferred source), High-end supermarkets with proper cheese departments, French import specialists and gourmet food stores, Online artisanal cheese retailers with proper refrigerated shipping, Direct from Burgundian producers during travel
Did You Know?
- 1.Époisses is so notoriously aromatic that in 2010, a French court ruled that employers could ban employees from eating it at work due to odor complaints, though this ruling was largely symbolic and not widely enforced
- 2.The cheese's aggressive aroma comes from the same bacterial species (Brevibacterium linens) that causes human foot odor, yet the cheese remains a delicacy rather than a deterrent to aficionados
- 3.Traditional production uses Marc de Bourgogne (pomace brandy) to wash the rind twice weekly during a 5-6 week aging period, giving it a sophisticated terroir connection to Burgundy wine production
- 4.Despite its powerful smell, Époisses has a surprisingly creamy interior with less pungency than its exterior suggests—the aroma is intentionally theatrical
- 5.The cheese was nearly extinct by the 1950s before being revived through the efforts of Robert Doisneau (famous photographer) and cheese maker Androuët, making it a symbol of artisanal cheese preservation
Plating Guidance
Explore all techniques →Vessel
Temperature-appropriate plates - chilled for cold dairy
Color Palette
White and cream tones, contrast with colorful accompaniments
Arrangements
Garnish Ideas